If you have any sales question use the Contact Us page.
All post-purchase support is handled through the FAQ’s (below) and our HobbyCNC Yahoo! support group (with over 3,500 members).
Access to the Advanced Technical Support FAQ will be provided when your order ships. An invitation to join the Yahoo support group will be provided at the same time. If it was not, please email brian(a)hobbycnc.com with your order information.
This FAQ and support group is available for customers who purchase product directly from us. 2nd, 3rd, etc owners are not eligible for support here or through our Yahoo hosted group.
Sales and Ordering
Compare HobbyCNC products – we offer two controller boards, the HobbyCNC PRO and the HobbyCNC EZ.
The HobbyCNC PRO board can be ordered in a 3 or 4 axis variant. Our kits are easy to assemble, compact, reliable and low cost. Only one board to drive 3 or 4 steppers. Many others offer one-board-per-stepper ‘solutions’ which increases wiring complexity and takes up much more space.
Feature Comparison Matrix
|HobbyCNC EZ||HobbyCNC PRO 3 axis||HobbyCNC Pro 4 axis|
|# of Axis||3||3||4|
|4th axis upgrade||No||Yes||N/A|
|Size||4.8" x 3.6"|
(122 x 91.5mm)
|6.8" x 3.7"
(173 x 94mm)
|Input Voltage||24VDC typ|
36 VDC max,
42 VDC max,
|3.0 Amps max|
600ma (.6A) min
|3.0 Amps max
500ma (.5A) min
1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, and 1/16
|Steppers Supported||5, 6, or 8 wire steppers (4 wire not usable)|
The HobbyCNC boards are compatible with Arduino, Raspberry Pi and others. HobbyCNC boards accept standard “Step and Direction” TTL level signals via a 25Pin D male connector.
The 25 Pin D connector is a reliable, robust and low-cost connector that is well suited for applications such as this. The pin-out is designed to be pin-for-pin compatible with a standard PC parallel port, however this does not prevent connecting the board to other systems.
The actual pin-outs of the connectors are provided on each product’s page (scroll to the bottom of the page!)
One way to access these pins is to use a 25 pin D, female, solder connector (Figure 1). You can add only the wires you need.
A steady hand is needed, but this is a good, reliable and inexpensive way to get to the connections. A “hood” or “shell” is also strongly suggested to protect the wires from the strain of plugging/unplugging (Figure 2).
Arduino name is a protected trademark of Arduino LLC.
Raspberry Pi is a trademark of the Raspberry Pi Foundation.
Shipping charges shown on the checkout screen are for delivery within the US only.
For shipments outside the US, a shipping and handling charge will be calculated and you will be informed via email of the additional charge. If this is acceptable, make the additional payment. Once payment is received, your product will ship.
Important: review the Ordering page for more details.
Basic Trouble Shooting
After each assembly step, before initial power-up and whenever you experience some problem, a thorough visual inspection will often solve 50% of the problems.
Use magnification and good lighting
Make sure you have good lighting and use some type of inspection loupe or, ideally, an inspection microscope (if you are so lucky) and carefully and methodically inspect every connection on the board – paying close attention to any adjacent solder joints (bridging).
There can be many variations in a solder joint – some are mainly aesthetic (too much/little solder), some are ‘time bombs’ (cold joints) which can work for a while, then at some future date, just ‘crap out’. Here is an excellent overview of solder joint issues by adafruit.
An unintentional ‘blob’ of solder that ‘bridges’ (connects) two pads that are geographically close together. Most often these can be repaired with a quick touch of a cleaned soldering iron. Egregious bridges may require a solder sucker or solder wick.
It is possible to “torque the hell” out of one of the screws and break the associated solder connection. Look closely (use magnification)
Having the proper equipment before attempting to assemble the PCB is strongly recommended. At a minimum you will need:
- Soldering Iron
- Diagonal Cutters
- Solder Sucker / Solder Wick
- Wire strippers
- Volt meter
- Small needle-nose pliers
- Something to hold the board (nice, but not necessary)
The Adafruit site has an excellent article and tutorial that is highly recommended for any newbies.
Advanced Technical Support
Support for Foam PRO and old HobbyCNC product
Check the HobbyCNC & CNC Foam Cutting page for some killer options.
The HobbyCNC FoamPro product has been discontinued and support and spare parts are no longer available.
All available documentation has been released in the files section of the HobbyCNC Yahoo Support Group.
I do not have access to schematics for these products.
You must use 2 separate power supplies.
As recommended per the instructions provided with the kit:
- The CNC board power supply of 12-24VDC 8A would be fine.
- The wire power supply of 24 to 36VDC at 8-10A works for most applications.
- Parallel port cable wired straight thru to connect to computer.
- Home function is not supported.