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Keith,
I contacted Dave, and he never had plans for a foam cutter. He did at one time sell plans for a hobby router, but he’s since sold the rights to that.
So, I’ve got nothing for you regarding plans for a mill or foam cutter.
If you do need manuals for old HobbyCNC boards, check out the FAQs (under “support”) and scroll to the bottom.
BrianVDon, I don’t see any photos.
Under normal operation, the heatsink will get too hot to touch for more than a few seconds. This is why a fan is recommended for 2A or more (I’d put a fan on it regardless, but that’s just me).
Here’s where I point everyone when there is a problem:
FAQ: No Motor Movement
FAQ: Missing steps – motor not behaving properlyFAQ: Microstepping Configuration
FAQ: Product Manuals / Assembly Instructions
FAQ: Is a special cable required to connect to my PC?
FAQ: What Power Supply do I need?Don,
The HobbyCNC boards haven’t had the timer feature for quite some time.
Unfortunately, I can’t help you with answers regarding the GMFC software – you’ll need to ask them what work-arounds they suggest. The USB/Ethernet to parallel port devices I’ve see are all software-dependent, so what works with one CAM system likely won’t work with another.
Sorry, but I’m sure the GMFC folks (or perhaps the website) can give you an answer.
Regards, BrianVWell, there’s not really a lot of things that can go bad, and there’s not really a lot of diagnosis that can be done either.
I’d have you start at the FAQs
https://hobbycnc.com/sp_faq/no-motor-movement/
and
https://hobbycnc.com/sp_faq/missing-steps/
If it’s a bad chip, email me brian at hobbycnc dot com and we’ll work it out.
Well, that isn’t the proper way to wire the switch. It is behaving exactly as I’d expect it to (e.g. it will do nothing).
The e-stop switch needs to be connected at one side to the GND of TB5 and to one of the remaining open pins on that same connector (Pin 11, in your case). The pin needs to be pulled to ground, not V+ (it’s already at +5V).
Another option is to put the e-stop switch in the same chain as the limit switches. See FAQ Home & Limit Switches. Regardless if it is a limit-reached or an e-stop, you want everything to stop moving.
You could go the relay route, but I think it’s overkill.
The old forum is still available for reading: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/HobbyCNC/info.
I’m not familiar with the 4AUPC boards, but I’ll give the drawing a look-over.
There should be plenty of inputs as-is.
ALL limit switches are wired in series (out of one, into the next) in a daisy-chain manner and all go to one input on TB5. It doesn’t matter WHICH limit is reached, you want to stop everything NOW.
That still leaves 4 inputs – one for Z-home, Y-home, X-home (and A-home if you have it).
The board already provides 10k pullups to +5V. Other than that, nothing is done to those 5 signal lines.
I’ve attached a schematic if that helps in understanding. Let me know if you need more info!
BrianV
Hey David, thanks for the feedback/followup. and thanks for the kind words!
Would you be good if I used your quote on my webpage:Your CNC router plans are nicely written, easy to follow, and comprehensive.
So far, the best plans I have purchased on the DIY CNC market today.
I have purchased five sets of plans so far, and yours are the best.
– David P1 user thanked author for this post.
Look at the attached, starting on page 18. The spring is ‘pinched’ between the coupling nut and the square nut. Thread the rod through the square nut, slide on the spring, then thread into the coupling nut. Make sure the spring is compressed.
DIY-CNC-Router-Plans-HobbyCNC no drawings.pdf
BrianV
Something I’d fishy in Denmark. I’ll have to draw it out, but no way, no how can it cause any problems with the computer!
Till I can noodle on it, see if the resistor pack by those pins is in the correct orientation.
I’m going to assume an EZ board. Crude drawing attached.
There is nothing but a pull-up resistor.
As a matter of personal preference, I use the NC side of limit/home switches. That way, any switch, wiring or connectors that fail usually will fail open (e.g. fail safe).
Something I’d fishy in Denmark. I’ll have to draw it out, but no way, no how can it cause any problems with the computer!
Till I can noodle on it, see if the resistor pack by those pins is in the correct orientation.
I’m going to assume an EZ board. Crude drawing attached.
There is nothing but a pull-up resistor.
You can just move your wiring to the unused axis (and reconfigure the software to match). That’d solve one axis.
The chips are still available online. I don’t carry that chip.Let me start by saying that I would not want to hazard a guess as to what motor/size/power would work in any particular application – there are too many variables.
IF you are talking about the router from my plans, I’m comfortable to say ‘no’. Personally, I believe NEMA 17 are good for low torque applications like 3D printers or laser cutters.
For applications (like milling) that need power/torque, I would (and I did) err on the side of too much power. You will sacrifice speed and acceleration the larger the motor, but you will at least have torque!
BrianV
